Tubliss rimlocks reduce the risk of major repairs in the field 
at the price of more work in the garage and more vigilance
at all times. 

It's done by installing a bladder at the bead root covered
by what amounts to a mini tire. The bladder spreads the "mini tire" 
until it seals against the _inside_ of the tire and jams the
tire against the rim. The rim has no role in air retention,
so spoke holes and rim needn't be sealed. The liner and bladder are
far from the tread, far from flexing and puncturing objects.

Being able to plug punctures in the field sounds like a huge
advantage, and if punctures or pinchflats are common the benefit
is quite real. However, Tubliss rimlocks are a very finely worked
out system that depends on careful assembly, tires and rims that
fit just right (mostly not too tight) and requires regular pressure
checking/top-up. 

Tire fitment is particularly hard to get right, since it's an issue
of "how tight" the tire goes on the rim, which nobody specifies.
In general tires designed for tubeless servce fit tighter than
tires designed for tubes, but nobody specs things like bead width,
which makes a big difference if it's wrong when fitting Tubliss.
I've used Avon Distanzia and Pirelli MT43 on the front, both nomially
the same 21" tire. The Avon is tight, needing well over rated sidewall
pressure to pop the bead into the beadseat and _very_ difficult to
install. It was even harder to seal, and wouldn't re-seal once pressure
loss allowed the bead to pop off the seat. The Pirelli went on much
easier, seated with a little less than rated sidewall pressure and
sealed on the first inflation. It also re-sealed when deflated and
reinflated. 


Tubliss isn't marketed to road riders, and after using it for two
years I understand why. Road tires run at high pressure, pinch flats
are unknown and punctures are relatively rare. In exchange for being
able to plug (very infrequent) punctures one is obliged to constantly
monitor the pressure in tire and rimlock bladder. Design tire pressure
is around 25 psi. If everything is just right more is possible, but
you're kinda stuck at the low end of the highway tire pressure range. 

The rear Tubliss installation on my DRZ400S loses about half a psi per
day from the bladder, less from the tire  at 35 psi. With a window
of about 20 psi for the bladder, pressure _must_ be topped up once a
month. If that's neglected (as I did on the front) the whole house of
cards starts to tremble. If the tire's tight on the rim, a soft liner 
results in loss of tire pressure which lets the tire shift and unseat
the liner. Getting it re-sealed may be as simple as pumping it back up, 
if one is unlucky it may require considerably more work. The same error
with a tube is far less work to correct, just pump it back up. 

Over around 45 mph the imbalance presented by Tubliss rimlocks takes about
five or five and one-half ounces of weight to correct. On the rear it's
not a problem, but getting eleven half-ounce weights to stay stuck on a
skinny 21 inch rim takes some ingenuity. I ended up using foam tape and
contact cement, and they still come off occasionally. 

Overall I don't regret trying Tubliss and will keep it as long as
I can make it work. The  alternatives are none of them attractive; 
tubes require disassembly to fix any leak, genuinely tubeless rims
cost many times more money. For now Tubliss is the least of the weevils.
It's a bit like choosing between water torture and risk of  drowning. 

The choice depends on the odds.