In early 2015 I decided to give Tubliss rimlocks a try on my DRZ400s. Being mostly a street rider with a tiny amount of dirt road thrown in, the motive wasn't off-road traction, but rather the ability to plug a puncture on the roadside. The experience of mounting tires and tubes in the comfort of my garage made it abundantly clear that doing it on the road would tax my ability and skill to the limit and beyond. Tubliss rimlocks were fitted under brand-new Avon Distanzia tires. The rear wasn't terribly hard to install and has given very good servcie, with no problems to date. Air loss from the bladder is less than half a psi per day, air loss from the tire is considerably lower. Altogether it's been a success. The front tire, in contrast, offered two major difficulties. First, the 1.6 inch wide rim gives very little space in the drop center to hold the tire beads and Tubliss while mounting the tire. The tire has to be very slick and almost too hot to touch with bare hands to go on nicely, and even then it's not easy. Perhaps more troublesome, the front Distanzia proved to be a very tight fit on the beadseat, so tight it won't stay in position without air pressure in both the Tubliss insert and in the tire. Loss of pressure results in the tire slipping back toward the drop center, which unseats the Tubliss insert and aggravated the leak. If only the tire loses pressure, the upset is small enough that the tire can be pumped up and ridden for a day or so, but if the insert deflates too, the upset is big enough to completely unseal the tire. Getting it to seal again, even if only enough to ride a few hours, is a major ordeal. In my case, after several days of struggle, I got the front Tubliss insert sealed up and it performed perfectly for two years. At that point I got complacent, and let the bike stand too long (two months). On checking, the tire was flat and the bladder was at 87 psi. The tire and bladder were brought back up to pressure, but the tire again went flat in a week with over 100 psi in the bladder. However, it was still rideable. In an effort to recover the excellent leak-tightness enjoyed previously, I tried to deflate the bladder and do a reset, per the instructions. The tire bead slipped back into the drop and a week later the tire was still unrideable. On disassembly, no defects were found in the Tubliss insert or bladder, but I did notice two of the mold whiskers draped over the ridge that appears to "bite" the inside of the tire to provide a seal. I'd wondered about trimming those off during the original installation, but the instructions said nothing so I didn't. In hindsight, perhaps I should have. However, the fundamental problem remains: With this particular tire, the bead isn't centered on the rim; one sector is misaligned by several mm at zero pressure and moves radially as the tire is inflated. The Tubliss insert can't follow that movement and retain a seal. It still isn't a total loss; the bike was rideable until I deflated the bladder, and if the tire had been an easier fit the seal might have recovered even from total deflation. The problem is finding a tire that fits correctly: Far as I can tell it simply has to be tried. That's costly in labor at a shop, and in tires for the home mechanic. With a better-fitting tire or a lot of effort the Tubliss setup has merit, but identifying a "better" tire seems impossible short of trying it. After half a dozen cycles of resetting the Tubliss insert, the big leaks finally cleared up enough to let me reassemble the bike. It remains to be seen if the formerly excellent airholding is repeated.